I’ve already reported on our success at reaching the summit
of Mont Ventoux; but before that day, we had tried even though it appeared to be
cloudy at the top as we’d seen it cloudy several days in a row when it had
cleared up in the afternoon. Though we
didn’t make the mountain, we had other adventures.
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| A borie |
On the way down this remote road, we stumbled across bories right at the side of
the road—unannounced and neatly kept for all to see—at least all who passed
that way and happened to look to the right and catch the one-lane road next to
it.
It was fascinating to be so close, walk
around and go inside.
The bories at
Gordes are available for close inspection, but we’ve never stopped to
visit.
And these were free for the
taking, so to speak.
For those of you to
whom bories are an unknown phenomenon, they are attributed to an ancient people
who built them beginning 2000 years ago and left little behind except their
abodes.
Not much is known about them, much
like the druids.
In more recent times
they were used by nomadic shepherds.
This
borie had three rooms, the threshold to one of which Cindy introduced her
forehead.
 |
| Roman port in Manaz |
On toward Mont Ventoux, we stopped in Mazan for a look
around the old town in the hopes the cloud cover to Mont Ventoux would
dissipate.
We walked through some
neighborhoods and saw homes built into the walls of the old city.
Alas, the clouds were not leaving the mountaintop, so we
opted for a U-turn and headed back toward Carpentras to look at some sights we
had missed at the last visit.
 |
| Outside Chez Serge |
Our high points were lunch at Chez Serge—recommended by
Eyewitness Guide and without reservations we were lucky to be seated.
Lunch was lovely and worth it.
We then headed toward the 14th-century synagogue--the oldest in France, which
we’d discovered on our previous visit but which was closed. This time, while it wasn’t yet open, we were
willing to wait until opening time along with another couple. So we sat in a sidewalk café watching the
door for a sign of activity.
A few minutes after the alleged opening time, a woman
arrived at the door to allow us entry along with the other couple—five people
in all.
Upstairs, the men were handed
yarmulkes and we were escorted inside.
The worship space is small and humble.
The torah is kept behind a large embroidered satin curtain.
The upstairs balcony was used by the men in
earlier years but is no longer safe.
The
chandeliers were donated by members over the last several centuries—some long
ago and some as recently as the 19
th century.
In the balcony were three menorahs, two of
which were from the 16
th century and the third from the 19
th
century.
The woman who let us in and
showed us around was easy to understand and happy to respond to my requests for
clarification.
A small child’s chair was
located high above the seats and was alleged to have been associated with Eli
at the time of his circumcision.
We were
told that on the ground floor was a boulangerie for making matzo and other
ceremonial breads; but it was currently being refurbished so not open to the
public.
 |
| L'Eglise Saint Siffrein Rose Window |
Carpentras’ L’Eglise Saint Siffrein is a conglomeration of
styles that the guide book claims is a mish-mash and “no great beauty to
behold.”
Indeed, it was undergoing some
repair and cleaning and much of it shrouded in gauzy protective strips behind
which we could hear much stone-chipping activity.
Inside, the sanctuary was more visually
appealing than the guide book would have one believe with some very nice
windows.
Someone was practicing the
organ, which was a grand sound.
We drove through Le Thor on the way back in search of a
theatre where we plan to attend a concert and where we had hoped to visit the
Pierre and Poppy Salinger Museum in the next week (reported previously).
All told and like many other days, though we didn’t do what
we had planned, we discovered new places, ate new food, drank good wine, and
learned unknown facts about unknown surprises.
It’s a privilege to fill my head with it all.
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